Of course, I had to pick the hottest week of the year for this trip in one of the hottest areas of California on the Eastern side of the Sierras. That meant getting up to arrive in Independence while it was still dark and beginning the climb as the sun rose. Upon daybreak, it was already 84 degrees. Plenty of parking in Independence at 6:00AM though!

I parked next to the post office with a thought to the end of the day. I knew it was going to be over 100 degrees by the time I returned so I positioned the Outback with purpose under a large tree that in theory would shade it later that day.

I unloaded and stocked up the Trek Domane with all four water bottles full of Tailwind nutrition. A habit that I would find would be a necessity each day of the trip. Out here, it could definitely end badly quickly without fluids and electrolytes. Most of these rides do not have water stops along the way. Campers and cyclists alike need to pack in their food and water.

Independence starts at 3,930 feet above sea level and the post office is located on Market Street which becomes Onion Valley Rd. Thus, this will be the easiest climb in regards to not getting lost. Directions are as follows: Start at the post office and go up until it ends. Turn around and go back to the post office.

As I started out, I passed the Independence Creek Campground where there were a few sports vans/RV’s with bikes as serious as mine. It was clear that the hardest climb in California was just not my lapse of sanity. Others had made the Pilgrimage as well. Considering my turtle climbing pace, I was confident at some point I would have some company pass me. I would think it would be soon since I could already feel the big fireball in the sky heating up my back and the scorching rays had literally just began to reach me.

Past the campground, the Sierras appeared with a grandeur only enjoyed by the few, the brave, and the early risers. I was all alone in the desert and it was one of those moments where you realize you are a tiny speck on the earth compared to the massiveness of the mother nature in front of you.

Since there are no trees, all you see is that long ribbon of asphalt in front of you. It seems endless when you can see it all. I have learned not to think of such things, but rather enjoy looking at my surroundings close to me and drink it in. Otherwise, it will feel like progress is not attainable.

The asphalt ribbon had been reported to be in rough shape. The report was accurate. Every 25 – 30 feet there was not only a crack in the road, it was pretty much a separation of about 3 to 6 inches. This wasn’t just for a portion of the road, it was like that all the way up. Not a big deal when you are going slow on the way up, but coming back down at speed would be another story.

There is nothing for a long time on this climb. Then, you finally make a bend and start to see how this might play out. To put it simple, it plays out “up”. There is no break. Just up.

It is a quiet ride. No one is really headed that way at 7AM in the way of traffic. However, after about 5 miles a cyclist came cruising down past me with a mechanical problem where he was stuck in one gear. He would go on to fix it back at that campground and actually catch up and pass me. No matter, it is all about the journey for me.

Eventually, you begin to pass campground areas and see some trees, hear a rushing river, and see humans off in the distance. This at least makes you feel like you are accomplishing something other than getting sore on your hiney on day one thanks to the gaps in the asphalt. Nothing like testing the anti-chafing cream strategy on the first day of a non-stop intense cycling trip!

Finally, some tree line begins to show itself along with some gentle switchbacks. The first of what would be come less than gentle.

A little further and the river becomes a thundering dominant sound in the canyon and the temperature even drops a bit. You hallucinate that you feel mist, but that is just wishful thinking.

Once I passed this point, the mountain began to laugh and throw the big switchbacks at me. They weren’t tight, but they were formidable and delivered a powerful confidence. A confidence that only thousands if not millions of years could emit unto us little ants called humans. I was definitely not conquering anything. I was allowed to pass through this space in this little sliver of history that would certainly not be remembered nor have any contribution to what really mattered up here. Nonetheless, I appreciated being granted the opportunity to pass through history and time that existed almost before time existed.

More campsites appeared. More vehicles appeared. Usually this is a sign in the Sierras that you are approaching the top of these climbs. Sure enough, I came to a line of vehicles parked on the side of the road with many early hikers preparing their gear for the day hike or week long hike they were about to make. After about another mile, I made the summit based in the middle of another campground and staging area complete with a pack horse trail.

Just to be safe, I asked a few campers where there might be a drinkable water source. The pointed to the signs that there wasn’t any. Again, glad I packed four water bottles for the trip up. I still had about a bottle and a half which should easily take care of me on the all downhill return.

As I began the downhill, I immediately took painful notice of those 4 to 6 inch gaps every 25 to 30 feet on Onion Valley Rd. It took a combination of ability to find the right track and hopping over them for 18 miles. That being said, it gave me a good reason to stop along the way an take some great photos of the view and the switchbacks from a better vantage.

Whenever I have climbed in the Eastern Sierras, I have always been in awe of the views headed back down. They are exceptionally expansive and impressive.

As I sped, dodged, and hopped my way down the mountain the temperature rose considerably as well as the hot wind. It became a giant hair dryer in my face. Let’s just say my timing was right. And, my parking strategy worked perfectly as well finding the shade that I had predicted next to the post office.

In the end, it was certainly a tough climb. Definitely in the top 3 in California. However, my personal opinion was that it was not the hardest. I think just down the way in Lone Pine, Whitney Portal was harder. Might be splitting switchbacks on that opinion though. Probably depends on the day as well. Overall, this was a good day.